How To Create The Perfect Emerald Lawn Ireland

Applying Weedkiller

On new sites, or on worn out lawns, where weed vegetation has developed, the entire area should be sprayed with a weed-killer. Preferably apply a “glyphosate” based weed-killer (such as Roundup), especially if stubborn weeds are present such as “Docken”. If the weed cover does not consist of stubborn weeds, and a quicker kill is required, then a “paraquat” based weed-killer can be used. The latter will normally take two-three days to give the desired effect, whilst the former will require two-three weeks until the weeds are desiccated. These weed killers are available from your local garden centre, who can advise on the recommended usage as stated on the product label.

Cultivating and Conditioning the Top Soil

When the applied weed-killer has given the desired effect, or with recently filled topsoil, the area should be cultivated by digging or rotavating. At this stage ensure that there is a minimum of 6 inches of topsoil present. If not, then the level should be increased as required with good quality topsoil. On heavy soils a “blinding” of sand can be spread over the area to improve the condition of the soil, leading to improved surface drainage and easier contouring of final levels. The site should now be graded to obtain approximate final levels. All debris such as stones and weed vegetation should be removed.

Consolidating and Leveling

To minimise future settlement it will now be necessary to “heel in” the ground so that it is firm enough to withstand imprints being left when walking over the site. Final levels should be corrected by light raking or “screeding” with the edge of a plank of wood, when reasonably dry ground conditions prevail. If a path or kerbs border the lawn area, the soil level should be flush with them, not making any allowance for the thickness of the eventual turf. The reason for this is that the turf is only ½ – ¾ inch thick and the final lawn level is better being slightly proud to enable unrestricted moving in the future. In addition the lawn levels will always settle slightly in time.

Fertilising the site and ordering the turfgrass

A lawn starter fertiliser should be spread over the ground and lightly raked into the top ½ inch of the soil (not more than 2-3 days prior to laying the lawn). You can order our fertiliser when placing an online order.

The proposed lawn should be measured as accurately as possible to ensure you receive sufficient lawn turf to complete the job. When placing your online order you can select from the scheduled delivery dates shown (N.B. We are unable to specify what time of the day the delivery will be made as it is a “Next Day” courier service from the collection day from us and therefore it might be delivered in the evening of the requested delivery date. If you are planning to lay it early in the day, you should therefore select a delivery date for the day before you plan to lay it. If you require an estimated time of arrival, please request this by replying to your order confirmation email on the morning of the scheduled delivery date.)

Laying the Turfgrass

Being a perishable product, each order is harvested fresh to order and should be laid as soon as possible, especially during hot weather. If necessary, it should be rolled out on a temporary area and kept sufficiently watered.

Start laying the turves in a straight line, along the longest edge of the area to be turfed, butting them closely end-to-end without stretching. On the first row of newly laid turves, place planks of wood or plywood sheets to walk on and work from, whilst laying the second row of turves. Repeat this procedure and always avoid walking on the prepared ground or the turf just laid, as this may disturb levels and add to your work. Alternative rows of turves should have the joints staggered to create a brickwork fashion.

Watering the New Lawn

Upon completion of laying the turf, the area should be SATURATED WITH WATER, especially during dry spells of weather. It is essential the turf is kept well watered until it has established (i.e. rooted into the ground). If not the turves can shrink, leaving gaps in the lawn, or easily die. The watering should be sufficient to thoroughly percolate through the turf and well into the underlying soil. Check this by periodically looking under the corners of some turves. IF IN DOUBT, SOAK IT! – YOU CANNOT OVER WATER.